馬祖家常麵:「棍麵」食譜

透過跟當地人密切生活,實際走進居民的廚房請益學習、共伙共食後發現,馬祖家常麵─「棍麵」是每位馬祖人記憶裡必備家庭料理。棍麵(又稱槓麵,俗稱狗麵),以木棍桿麵而得名,是常見於福州一帶的家常菜,根據時令、冰箱備菜、飲食喜好等,可加入不同配料。從這趟駐村所採集到的料理方法與食材,繪製成膠彩食譜,同時也透過分享再現食譜,由創作者料理給參與者一起享用,以「棍麵」食譜為討論起點,採集在地人的飲食記憶。

Homemade Noodles Recipes from DongJu Island

During art residency in DongJu Island, I spent almost every meal with the local cook, Mr. Tsao (曹爸). If i need to choose one daily dish to represent the island, it must be the homemade noodles: 棍麵. You need to start with making noodles from flour, and every ingredient goes with the soup is seasonal and specific to the environment, like the seafood Mr. Tsao captured that day and vegetables from his garden. Meat like pork or beef is rare on this tiny island. If you want to add some meaty flavor into noodle soup, sometimes DongJu local will pour in the military canned pork/beef, which you can only get from the military supplies store.

Different local family has different necessary ingredients for this soup noodle dish. I transformed the daily dish into an art event. I invited residents to make the dish together and then interviewed them while dining together, everyone has different memory related 棍麵 that reflected to their different life period.